Body Movement Tips to Use During Climbing

Tips to Always Use During Climbing:

It is extremely important to use correct climbing technique while climbing to prevent injury and improve our climbing ability. This takes time to learn and should be practiced while warming up and climbing easy routes so it becomes part of our normal body movement overtime. Below are FIVE tips to help improve body movement while climbing:

1. Keep Good Posture:
Keep the trunk (hips, core, shoulders) upright, with shoulders back, and shoulder blades GENTLY squeezed together. This creates a very powerful foundation from which to engage movement. 
*When the body is aligned with good posture the muscles can act more effectively and are less likely to strain. 

2. Bring Your Hips into the Wall:
Move your center of mass (the hip/core area) down and closer to your toes and bring the entire pelvis toward the wall by rotating one hip into the wall. 
*The center of mass is the area around which the majority of your body weight sits, and the closer we keep that weight near our toes/legs the less our shoulders, elbows and bodies have to work!

3. Don't Over-bend Your Arms:
Try to make every movement keeping straight arms, this means you may need to do a few extra foot moves, including getting your feet really high to stand up. Remember not to lock the elbow, but to maintain a tiny micro-bend to prevent straining the elbow joint.
*Keeping straight arms means we need to bend the knees instead and moves our focus to using powerful legs to generate movement!

4. Push with Your Feet:
Always remember to push through the feet first and ONLY pull with the arms when absolutely necessary. 
*The legs are developed to support all of our body weight and are much more powerful than our arms.

5. Climb Like You Crawl:
The rule of opposites! When crawling, babies learn the most efficient way to move their bodies by first moving their right arm then their opposite left leg, and then their left arm followed by their right leg. This rule also makes for efficient climbing by maintaining balance and keeping the power in the core.

(Above tips are from the book Climb Injury Free by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT)

Competitions!

Hi All!

As you know Vladi and I will be gone the next few Saturdays and Anthony and Arlette will be coaching! We will be transitioning to bouldering season/training pretty soon and I just wanted to remind you all about the upcoming competitions so that you can mark your calendars! And athough you are not required to compete we encourage you to try it out!

Membership with USA climbing is required to compete. There are various memberships available depending on your competition goals which can range from a $10 day pass membership for one competition event to $95 for the competitor membership good from 9/1-8/31. For registration and other information please go to the following link below:

http://www.usaclimbing.org/Members/Membership_Overview.htm


COMPETITION SCHEDULE (New England West)
*Climbers must compete in at least 2 local competitions to qualify for Regionals

Locals
9/16 Rock Climb Fairfield - Fairfeld, CT
9/30 New Jersey Rock Gym - Fairfield, NJ
10/7 The Gravity Vault - Poughkeepsie, NY
10/15 The Rock Club - New Rochelle, NY
10/21  Brooklyn Boulders - Queensbridge || Long Island City, NY
10/28 The Gravity Vault |-Melville, NY
11/4 The Gravity Vault - Chatham, NJ

Regionals
12/9 The Gravity Vault - Melville, NY

Divisionals
1/13 TBA

Strength and Conditioning

Hi Everyone!

Remember that homework for the week??? We wanted to check in an make sure you are all remembering to do it. Our goal is to get you all performing as much strength and conditioning at home for a little while so that we can spend more time at practice climbing. If you missed practice or forgot what the homework was, please see below. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to text, email, or call us!

Daily Home Exercises: (the below exercises should be done daily)

a) 10 push ups (good form, elbows by side; use knees if needed, does not have to be 10 in a row)
b) 2 sets of 1-minute planks (on elbows, aim for 2 minutes if 1 minute is easy, if 1 minute is too hard hold only as long as you can maintain good form)
c) 1 set 30+ crunches (crunch only high enough to get your shoulder blades off the ground)
d) 1 set 12 mountain climbers reps (1 rep includes both right and left leg)

An Overall Review

Hi All!

Here is nice video that gives a general overview of basic climbing movement. It is a nice introduction for those of use newer to climbing, and a nice review for those who have been climbing a little longer !


Updated Form Videos

Hi Guys! Sorry for the delay in getting these videos up. Here are the videos on back stepping/drop knees and proper hand placement (shoulder engagement) that we watched during practice a couple weeks ago. Remember, although much of the time we aim to climb straight armed, there should still be some engagement of the upper back to support the shoulders rather than the shoulders being hiked up by our ears. There are also some videos by Ether Smith on the videos tab that looks at this in more detail.

Watch the videos again for a refresher, or if you missed practice take a look; there a few mono-bouldering routes (routes with the same type of movement all the way up) in the gym allow us to practice these skills (the green route we have been practicing on utilizes this technique). The yellow and red boulder routes have us do a drop knee as well, but they also include stepping through on every move to change which hip is facing the wall with our other leg flagged out for support; I will post some videos of these route being climbed soon to use as examples.



Footwork!

Hi Guys! There are two videos I am going to share with you today at practice regarding footwork and I have put them up here for you to reference as well, see below. Also, I have updated the Yoga/Warm-Up page with some new videos and I have added a few links to the resources page. Enjoy!


Warm Up and Yoga for Climbers Page!

Hi Guys! Just an update, there is a new page added to the tabs above called "Yoga/Warm Up Videos". Take a look a try to implement some of the techniques at home or when you are at the gym next. Below are a couple of the videos just to give you a sneak peak!

Yoga for Climbers: The Warm Up

Climbing Warm Up Routine by Jared Vagy:

Drills Update!

Hi Guys! The "Drills" page has been updated with Top Rope Drills. It is still in the works and will soon include Traverse Drills and general drill tips as well. Take a look for more detailed descriptions of the top rope drills we have used during practice so that you can train on your own time. Warm-up climbing is a great way time to practice drills!

1. Straight-Armed Drill:

2. High-Step Drill: 

3. Frog-Foot Drill:

4. Frog-Foot Dynamic Drill:

Don't Forget....There is a Climbing Competition this Weekend

Hi Guys!

Just a reminder...it is not too late to register for this weekend's climbing competition! You can get more information about the comp and how to register at the link below:
http://www.gravityvault.com/locations/melville-ny/events/details/usac-youth-sport-climbing-competition-3

You can still participate if you do not register, you will just not be considered in the overall rankings, but it would still be a great experience!

Please remember that:
  • Climber Check in: 8:45AM - 9:45AM
  • Climbing Begins: 10:00AM (Competitors' meeting 10 minutes prior)
  • Climbing Ends: 2:00PM (Scoring and awards ASAP)
  • Format: Red Point (your highest graded routes will count even if it took you multiple attempts)

If you guys show up nice and early I will have some treats and we can talk strategy, scope out routes, and warm up together!

Sleep well tonight and have fun tomorrow.

Climb like a Pro!

One way we can improve our climbing is by modeling more experienced climbers who do not just climb hard, but climb well. This can be done by climbing with them or just by watching them at the gym or through videos!

So below I have provided some information about the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing). The IFSC coordinates the international rock climbing world cups each year in Speed, Bouldering, and Lead climbing. These competitions are held throughout the world and have just begun and will continue into the Fall. The competitions can be watched for free, via youtube, where you will be able to watch some of the world's best climbers hard at work! This is a great way to see how the Pros climb, the technique they use, and the perseverance they display!

Usually, the qualification rounds, semi-finals and finals are all available online. I prefer to watch the Semi-finals and the Finals! You can also watch some of the previous World Cup finals by going to their youtube channel at https://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel! Also, there will be a bouldering world cup this weekend in China, so stay tuned to their channel! Their calendar of events is available on their website at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/.

Watch this year's first bouldering world cup finals that took place two weeks ago!

Welcome!

Hi Guys! Welcome to the Melville Gravity Vault Climbing Team blog. This blog is meant to be used as a resource for you guys to continue training and learning even when we are not together as a team. I will post information that you might find useful for training such as drills, exercises, additional resources, and food for thought regarding technique and mental training. There are additional pages that provide videos displaying proper form for various exercises and climbing positions. 
I hope you guys will find this blog motivating and useful as we train together! Happy Climbing!